Wednesday, September 30, 2009

I heart fall

NYC is crisp and cool these days. I broke out the black boots and the cozy sweaters. It's fall! My favorite time of year. Turning leaves, pumpkin everything! I've been watching two new funny shows to honor fall sweeps.

Glee- watched b/c everyone was talking about it. Sort of like High School Musical meets The Office. The awkward moments of high school brilliantly counterbalanced by professional song and dance sequences. Characters interesting but flat; if they can make them more dynamic I will keep watching.

Party Down- skated completely under the cultural radar. Show about a tiny catering company in LA. Very accurate, which makes it hilarious, and also very awkward. By god, this show had to happen one day because so much drama goes down during catering, and everyone is an artistic type. best line (which I hear all the time): "we are not waiters, we are actors!"
Plus: produced by Rob Thomas of Veronica Mars glory, so the show is populated by former VM actors. Yay Logan! and Dick! and Meg!

Both shows feature Jane Lynch (she actually left Party Down to do Glee), so that's a plus. She's frakkin hilarious.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Santorini

When we got to Santorini (the honeymoon island!) it was pouring down rain. We took a bus on a road that hairpins all the way up a cliff right by the port. Santorini is an amazing mix of cliffs and beach and volcano. Our bus dropped us off in Perissa, a lazy little beach town chock full of tourists. We had a nice night exploring the town- bars, restaurants, tourist offices and souvenir shops.

The next day we went on a day long excursion. First- the volcano! It was quite surreal to walk around on the black, rocky, smoky volcanic island. Then they took us to a natural hot spring in the ocean tucked into the rocky cliffs. Or, luke warm hotspring. I actually had to jump off the boat into the ocean and then swim through cold water into the warm, red soiled water and then back through the cold water and clamber onto the boat again. It was fun! Then they dropped us off on a tiny coastal town on another little island. Well, you could climb the 45 minute hill to the town on top of the cliff or like we did you could stay at the bottom and chill out.

Our last stop was Oia, the famous honey moon destination, sunset watching, expensive blue and white hotel hotspot. The beauty! It was full of white washed buildings, blue doors and ironwork, bright pink bougainvillea! just perfect. we washed down some chokingly expensive sangria and enjoyed the glittery sunset before heading back to perissa. the next few days we just relaxed & enjoyed being beachy and swimming in the crystal clear ocean before finally flying up and over the islands!

Friday, September 25, 2009

The Greek Islands

After Athens, we were on our way to the Greek Islands. I got up at around 5:30 am to get on the Athens metro and go to Piraeus, the dock where you catch the Island bound ferries. Our ferry left Athens at 7:25 and was supposed to get into Naxos at around 1pm. The ferry was a multi-level boat with a huge parking garage for cars and cargo and then two passenger decks, one mostly inside and the others on an open air deck. I didn't get too sick but the last hour made my tummy feel funny. Finally we landed at Naxos, one of the bigger Islands in the Cyclades.

We arrived at Pension Sofi around 2pm, exhausted and travel weary. Our friendly hotel hosts gave us a plate of tomatoes, olives and cheese as well as glasses of wine that they made in the vineyard across the street. The hotel was quite pretty, full of blue and white furniture, floral fabrics and pastel colored rooms. We then ventured out to the center of Naxos Town, which is on the top of a hill and gives quite a view of the island. There we had wonderful meal at Taverna to Kastro, where we ate grilled fish, lamb stew and other fun dishes and finished it off by sipping cognac and watching the magnificent sunset.

The next day, we rented a Fiat Panda and decided to explore the island by car. The roads were very twisty, high up and on the edge of large cliffs so needless to say I was quite scared. We made it to Halki, where there is a Kitron distillery, or the touristic remains of one. Kitron is a large citrus fruit that they make into a very pungent lemon/lime flavored alcohol. There are three different variations: yellow (the least sugar, the highest alcohol content), the most popular clear (medium sugar), and green (most sugar, least alcohol content). We also sampled some grappa with spices and honey and cognac.

From Halki we got completely lost and ended up- after a series of gut churning hair pin turns on high cliffs- at the little beach town of Lionas. Look it up on Google maps and you can see what I mean by lost. Only one road goes to Lionas. After that we drove back and around the rest of the island getting an incredible view of the hilly, cliffy terrain and great sunset.

The next day we went to the pristine sandy beaches and lounged around, then prepared to take another ferry to Santorini!

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

200th post!

My goodness I can't believe where all the time has gone! I started this blog right at the tail end of college because I always have something to say and there were no longer paid professors for me to say it to, lol. It's amazing to think how much my life has changed in the last couple of years and wonder how much it will change in the next two. All I can say is bon voyage!

Friday, September 18, 2009

From the end, Istanbul

Istanbul is just cool. I arrived at my hostel, Bahous Guesthouse, to find a four story building with a bar/roofdeck all decorated in a sort of mishmash of Turkish carpets, chairs, mirrors and knick knacks. There are a group of Turkish guys who work here and as far as I can figure out their job is to make nice with the guests, joke around and teach us bits of Turkish. And flirt. A lot. It makes for an interesting experience and I wonder what guys think of Turkey because all of our interactions here seem to be flirations with Turkish men.

We are staying in Sultanhamet which is very touristy, pretty and expensive. Kind of like the West Village with mosques, museums and palaces. A little further away from us is the Grand Bazaar (didn't like, too touristy) and the Spice Market (loved! spent all my liras here). The spice market is full of dried fruit, spices, water pipes, Turkish Delight (lokum), scarves, and jewelry. The market smells wonderful and was full of sounds and sights and Turkish men asking us where we were from and wouldn't we like to buy something. It shaped like a large cross with each line about three city blocks long. Outside of the spice market is a vast open air market that sells everything from undies to kitchen utensils to school supplies. I bought Turkish coffee, turkish delight, a scarf, olive oil soap, dates, etc.

Next to the market is Galata bridge which spans the Golden Horn. On the other side of the bridge is Beyoğlu (pronounced Bey-a-lou) on the Anatolian side. We wandered over the bridge and the up, up, up the steep stairs to the modern streets that lead to Taksim Square. This is where the majority of people work and play. It was very modern- like Broadway and Soho if they were completely pedestrian.

Luckily, one of my friends had a Turkish friend who took us to a local place for dinner. He led us to this out of the way storefront where there was a lone elevator with no sign and markings. You took this elevator to the 6th floor where there was a tiny rooftop tavern. We ate lamb with mushrooms, dolmas with yogurt sauce, and various other casseroles. It was delish!

The next day we went to Topkapi palace and saw the famous dagger and the harems. There wasn't much to see, per se, as most of the palace is quite empty and has all the same luxuriously tiled walls, elaborate windows and wall length couches. But I was quite happy to let my imagination run wild and picture the Sultan with his wives, his mother and his sons in that warren of rooms.

We also made our way to the hammans, or Turkish bath. So you get there and then take off your clothes (most people kept their underwear on but went topless) and go down to the steam room. Here this was a very hot, steamy room with a giant marble stone circle in the middle. You lie on top of this stone for fifteen minutes or so until you are quite sweaty. Then the bathing lady comes and starts scrubbing you down hard core. Then they splash water on you and soap you up. Then more water and they shampoo you. Then more water and you are done. Then you are free to enjoy the sauna and hot tub and marble slab as you please, dousing yourself with hot or cold water as you feel the need. After all this you get a warm towel and can sit in the tea room for a while. Very relaxing!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

From the beginning, Athens

I arrived in Athens on a Saturday night after a long flight. It was pretty easy to figure out the metro system and then walk to our hotel, which was a few blocks from the Syntagma stop. Syntagma is where the main parliment stop is and we went the next morning to watch the changing of the guard, a long process involving guards in full costume with big puffy balls on their feet walking around.

From there we walked further into the market/tourist district where you can see the acropolis from almost everywhere and the streets are lined with souvlaki and gyro places, selling greek salads thick with feta and cold Mythos or Alpha beers (Alpha being the sweeter/maliter, Mythos more like Corona or Stella).

We stayed at the Student Traveler's Inn which was footsteps from the Plaka, or center of Athens. Plaka is like little italy. It is pedestrian only with cobblestone streets, cute little sidewalk eateries and people selling all kinds of Greek chotchkes. It was enchanting for a few days but quickly became old and tiresome. The setting was great- the arched doorways covered with flowers and vines. It was just all the people trying to sell you stuff all the time.

The hostel was cute with a garden terrace and lots of friendly internationals. It was just a little too loud. Around 5 am before we had to get up to catch the 7am ferry to Naxos, we heard an american girl come in loudly saying that she had made out with a greek boy and nobody better tell her boyfriend! That "don't tell my boyfriend" became an instant inside joke througout our trip.

The historical sites of athens are pretty cool. For 12 euro you can buy a ticket to all the main sites including Hadrian's Arch/library, the acropolis, the two agoras, theaters and other places. The Acropolis had amazing views of the city but was very very hot on a 90 plus degree day. I enjoyed getting to know this side of Athens.
We also went to see a traditional greek dance but got rained out in the middle of this outdoor performance.

In Turkey!

I'm writing this blogpost from Turkey. I have a few free moments since I just arrived at my hostel in Istanbul, which appears to be pretty awesome- ie rooftop bar filled with pillows, hookah, and a view of the city.

This morning I was in Perissa town, Santorini Island, Greece. I stumbled out of my beachside hostel around 8am and went into the sleepy town to catch a bus into Fira, the main town on the island. From there I took another bus to the airport and took the 1/2 hour flight to Athens, and then quickly turned around and took another 45 minute flight to Istanbul. The views out my plane window were amazing! and worth all the schlepping.

I have to admit I am a little exhausted from traveling. It's been more than a week already! But I am glad to be in a new place and look forward to exploring it in the next few days. I guess it can't really get any better than enjoying where you are and also getting to look forward to going home, so that's nice

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Sunshine Cleaning

This movie was a pleasure to watch. It was simple and not conceited, well acted and elegantly written and unpredictable enough to keep me interested.

Sunshine Cleaning stars Amy Adams and Emily Blunt as two sisters trying to find their way in life as adults after they mother committed suicide when they were kids. They start a crime scene/blood & guts cleaning business together.

I liked this movie because- gasp- it was about the relationship between two women and their family dynamics. There was no forced heterosexual resolution. It was sort of in the vein of Thelma and Louise but more subtle and less desperate; more cathartic and less edgy. It was the kind of old school melodrama that I like but it didn't have to punish the women for not being with a man, for not being financially successful, for not being married. It was nice to breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy a movie that was not just dripping with Hollywood slickness (although both Adams and Blunt are distractingly gorgeous).

:)