From the end, Istanbul

Istanbul is just cool. I arrived at my hostel, Bahous Guesthouse, to find a four story building with a bar/roofdeck all decorated in a sort of mishmash of Turkish carpets, chairs, mirrors and knick knacks. There are a group of Turkish guys who work here and as far as I can figure out their job is to make nice with the guests, joke around and teach us bits of Turkish. And flirt. A lot. It makes for an interesting experience and I wonder what guys think of Turkey because all of our interactions here seem to be flirations with Turkish men.

We are staying in Sultanhamet which is very touristy, pretty and expensive. Kind of like the West Village with mosques, museums and palaces. A little further away from us is the Grand Bazaar (didn't like, too touristy) and the Spice Market (loved! spent all my liras here). The spice market is full of dried fruit, spices, water pipes, Turkish Delight (lokum), scarves, and jewelry. The market smells wonderful and was full of sounds and sights and Turkish men asking us where we were from and wouldn't we like to buy something. It shaped like a large cross with each line about three city blocks long. Outside of the spice market is a vast open air market that sells everything from undies to kitchen utensils to school supplies. I bought Turkish coffee, turkish delight, a scarf, olive oil soap, dates, etc.

Next to the market is Galata bridge which spans the Golden Horn. On the other side of the bridge is Beyoğlu (pronounced Bey-a-lou) on the Anatolian side. We wandered over the bridge and the up, up, up the steep stairs to the modern streets that lead to Taksim Square. This is where the majority of people work and play. It was very modern- like Broadway and Soho if they were completely pedestrian.

Luckily, one of my friends had a Turkish friend who took us to a local place for dinner. He led us to this out of the way storefront where there was a lone elevator with no sign and markings. You took this elevator to the 6th floor where there was a tiny rooftop tavern. We ate lamb with mushrooms, dolmas with yogurt sauce, and various other casseroles. It was delish!

The next day we went to Topkapi palace and saw the famous dagger and the harems. There wasn't much to see, per se, as most of the palace is quite empty and has all the same luxuriously tiled walls, elaborate windows and wall length couches. But I was quite happy to let my imagination run wild and picture the Sultan with his wives, his mother and his sons in that warren of rooms.

We also made our way to the hammans, or Turkish bath. So you get there and then take off your clothes (most people kept their underwear on but went topless) and go down to the steam room. Here this was a very hot, steamy room with a giant marble stone circle in the middle. You lie on top of this stone for fifteen minutes or so until you are quite sweaty. Then the bathing lady comes and starts scrubbing you down hard core. Then they splash water on you and soap you up. Then more water and they shampoo you. Then more water and you are done. Then you are free to enjoy the sauna and hot tub and marble slab as you please, dousing yourself with hot or cold water as you feel the need. After all this you get a warm towel and can sit in the tea room for a while. Very relaxing!